13th March 2010  Features

Where East Meets West

The imposing Ljubljanski Grad, perched over Ljubljana Old Town
The imposing Ljubljanski Grad, perched over Ljubljana Old Town
10th December 2008
Jordan Walker

A flavour of the Balkans, inter-railing between Slovenian and Croatian capital cities.

The drive into Slovenia’s capital, Ljubljana, is certainly one of contrasts. The modern road network transports you from the lush evergreen world which surrounds the airport, to a post-Communist suburban jungle almost seamlessly.

The city itself is nestled around the River Ljubljanica (a tributary of the River Sava) and is stunning in its pre-Titoist grandeur. The river, upon our arrival, was a brilliant turquoise colour, which would not have looked out of place lapping a Caribbean beach, but was turned into a heaving brown quagmire by the torrential rain, which conveniently fell during the night.

Watching over the city on the purposefully named Castle Hill is Ljubljanski Grad, the medieval castle which dominates the skyline. Tourists can be transported to the castle on a charming little funicular railway; however the more adventurous traveller can scale the precipitous ascent via the old town, which hugs the hillside, and take in the views at their own rate. Upon reaching the classically European castle, your efforts are rewarded in the form of art galleries, a magnificent panorama, and of course the ubiquitous gift shop.

Ljubljana would certainly be described as a compact city, with ample amenities and restaurants for its size. The architecture is a juxtaposition of classical design and modernist concrete, and despite being covered in graffiti, there is no menace to the city. Furthermore, hidden in the north-west is Park Tivoli, a peaceful and beautifully landscaped green area, the perfect place to relax after a full day of sightseeing.

The inter-city train journey to Croatia was a pleasant and civilised experience, dominated by the relative luxury of having a semi-private compartment. Following the swollen and turbulent Sava to Zagreb, the train weaved though the industrialised centres and rural backwaters of Slovenia until we reached the border, where much to my joy our passports were stamped, legitimising our arrival in Croatia.

Zagreb by contrast is a sprawling metropolis, a city dominated by extensive boulevards and majestic buildings comparable to those you would find in the major European capitals. On exiting the central station, Zagreb Glavni Kolodvor, you are greeted by a busy and impressive park, surrounded by substantial but not imposing buildings.

The Croatian capital had a pace and energy about it which was devoid in Ljubljana, and oddly enough was a friendlier place, despite its superior size. Moreover there is more to see in this city: the unique 13th century Church of St. Mark, the Botanical gardens and the central Ban Jelačić Square are all worth investigating. As a word of warning however, the road names published in most maps can vary significantly from what the locals call them and how they are written on road signs. But don’t let this put you off, if you are looking for a city break these Balkan capitals offer an exciting alternative to the beaten tracks of either Paris or Rome.



travel,city,road,croatia,slovenia,capital,balkans,boulevards,croatian


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