A cool sea breeze gushed into the train as the doors whooshed open at the final stop; a refreshing and much appreciated contrast to the stagnant smell of tobacco which permeated the gruelling six hour journey to Split. The underdeveloped station offered but a moments protection from the busy street outside, which doubled as the bus station and ferry terminal. The city planners certainly wanted the transport infrastructure all in one place. No doubt this is convenient, though a little overwhelming as a first impression.

The city of Split, on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, provides the weary traveller with a restrained welcoming committee – a small army of old women sit close to this transport hub, fanning themselves with their signs offering rooms at cheap rates in a variety of languages. Private apartments are in abundance in this city, though some, inevitably, are farther away from the centre than others. Split does provide a number of hotels too, but if all you need is a place to crash for a couple of nights, an apartment is more than adequate, even for the novice traveller.

This Adriatic city connects the capital, Zagreb, with the Dalmatian coast and islands. While it is the end of the line as far as trains are concerned, regular buses depart for the historic World Heritage city of Dubrovnik, as well as links to Bosnia-Herzegovina. Moreover, a vast array of ferries line the dock ready to transport you to the many islands which litter this coastline, the largest and more popular island of Brač included.

Despite being Croatia’s second city, central Split is a relatively small size, and for this reason, along with the excellent transport infrastructure, it makes an ideal place to visit en route to the region’s other attractions.

The newly refurbished quayside terrace, the Riva, is plentiful in restaurants and bars. It is the perfect spot to unwind with a cold beer and people watch while the sun goes down over the tranquil old harbour.

The Riva is overlooked, however, by Split’s main attraction: the UNESCO protected Dioklecijanova Palača (The Palace of Diocletian) which was completed at the turn of the fourth century. It is a ramshackle yet grandiose structure, the most architecturally intact example of Roman design in Croatia. The walled grounds of Diocletian dominate the city centre, shielding a collection of alley ways and modest squares, which, despite its historic value is very much still a vivacious, functioning site. Although no longer performing its palatial duties, it contains many shops, homes, and the odd Centurion in full Roman attire, willing, at a cost, to pose with you for that priceless photo.

A short walk from the centre is Bačvice beach, populated predominantly by locals; it is an accommodating yet populous place to melt under the sun. The shallow bay provides a sheltered area to relax, a world away from this small, yet busy city.